Friendship Trek

ISLAND PEAK TREK & CLIMB (6, 200M):
* 24 Days (4 Days Kathmandu, 16 Days Camping Trek & 4 Days

Mountaineering)

* Grade: Challenging Plus
* Max. Elevation: 6, 200m
* Departs From Kathmandu, Every Sunday & Wednesday

This is the most popular climbing / trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar separated by a small col.

The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Ama Dablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.
The Island Peak as was named by Eric Shipton's party in 1952 or, Imja Tse as was renamed in 1983, does resemble an island in a sea of ice as seen from above Dingboche in the Khumbu region. However, on close inspection it reveals itself an interesting & attractive summit, providing an enjoyable climb of the peak coupled with some of the most striking sceneries up in the Himalayas. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), as yet still unclimbed & Lhotse Shar (8,383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6,734m), beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m). To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse (7,720m) & the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6,856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay.

To participate with this program you must plan on arriving in Kathmandu not later than 2 days before departure date.

Fixed Departure Dates
2008/9				2008/9
February	March	April	May	September	October	November	December
26	25	9 & 24	7	22	6 & 21	5	8

1 Transfer to the airport, fly to Lukla, (2834m) and trek to Phakding,

(2640m). Overnight in lodge.

2 Trek to Namche Bazaar, (3446m). Overnight in lodge.
3 Trek to Khumjung (3790m). Overnight in lodge.
4 Trek to Tengboche Monastery, 3867m with its famous Manirimdu

Festival. Overnight in lodge.

5 Trek to Dingboche, 4343m. Overnight in lodge.
6 Trek to Lobuche, 4887m. Overnight in lodge.
7 Visit Kala Patthar (5545m). Return to Lobuche and Overnight in

lodge.

8 Trek to Chhukung (4730m). Overnight in lodge.
9 Trek to Island Peak base camp (5100m). Overnight in tented camp.
10 Start slowly climbing to the camp 1 (5600m) on Island Peak. You

have all day to reach that intermediate camp. Do not expect the luxury of the base camp, but rather expect a sleepless night dreaming of your first 6,000 m peak.

11 Summit Peak (6160m). Early morning, start going to the top. After

camp 1, go up in the gully, traverse to the right, up on a wide stone field, cross the ridge to the glacier. Always beware of the crevasses. You are nearly halfway. Have a good trip to the top and safely down. Overnight in tented camp.

12 Trek to Pangboche (3900m). Overnight in lodge.
13 Trek to Khumjung. Overnight at Lodge.
14 Trek to Phakding. Overnight at lodge.
15 Trek to Lukla. Overnight in lodge.
16 Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.

Grading:
This trek is strenuous. You need to have a sense of adventure, and the willingness to walk 8 to 9 hours a day, often at high altitude. Good physical condition and a degree of good stamina are essential. A basic knowledge of mountain climbing is an advantage, although our experienced Sherpa guides will guide and accompany you to the top.

The Climb:
South - East Flank:
The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5,087 m. This is not an attractive place and one has to be careful for avalanches.

From base camp the trail goes round the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Following an open gully leads to the high camp at 5,280 m.
From the high camp scramble across the open gully and take the right hand ridge. After the ridge straight op and cross to the glacier. Find your way upwards, to the left side between the crevasses and seracs. You will see a gully with on your left side rocks and on the right side more open space. This gully leads to the summit ridge. Be aware of falling stones and ice.

The ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit which is reached by a final snow pitch.

North Ridge:
Follow the Imja Glacier and the moraines by snowy slopes op to the col at 5,700 m. Put your camp on the col. From the col follow the ridge. This ridge is difficult under snow conditions. Beware of the cornices. The ridge steepens for the final top. This route is a little more difficult than the normal route.
2 Parties could climbs from each side and take the camps down.

Package includes:
. All-inclusive full board tented camp trek combined with lodge

accommodation along with food, foam mattresses, sleeping tent, dining tent, toilet tent provided.

. Airfare: Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu
. Services of Sirdar, cook, Shera staff and porters or yaks while on

trek.

. All kitchen utensils / materials along with tables and chairs.
. Transportation, Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu of all equipment,

food, staff and porters.

. Local taxes, guide & porters' insurance.
. Sagarmatha National Park fee.
. Peak Fee, equipment allowance of climbing guide, necessary

equipment and clothing for camp staff and porters.

. Common used climbing equipment. (fixed ropes, ice screws, pitons,

etc.)

. All transportation in Kathmandu as per program.
. Domestic airport departure taxes.
Package does not include:
* Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
* Expenses of personal nature.
* Personal tips.
* Alcoholic beverages and canned or bottled cold drinks.
* International departure taxes.
* Personal climbing equipment. (Can be rented in the Kathmandu)